Racking
Well
first you need bottles and lots of them! Before bottling collect the number of
bottles and caps you will need (see chart below). Wash thoroughly and scrub with
a bottle brush, then sanitize them.
Place
metal caps in boiling water, but not plastic caps used for PET bottles. Turn
the heat off first before adding PET bottle caps so you don’t melt them. When
the cap is hot it seals better.
You
can use PET bottles with re-useable plastic caps or glass crown top bottles
with a capper. I’ve heard several people claim that PET bottles won’t keep long
because they leak air and your beer will loose carbonation. I have some beer
bottled in PET bottles that have been bottled over a year and they are fine.
Hot caps seal better!
From the table below you can see just how much beer can be made
using the various sized kits available.
Basic Beer Bottling
Calculations |
|||||||
Batch Size in Gallons |
1 |
2.5 |
3 |
5 |
5.5 |
6 |
10 |
Beer Produced in Ounces |
128 |
320 |
384 |
640 |
704 |
768 |
1280 |
Number of 8 oz. Bottles |
16 |
40 |
48 |
80 |
88 |
96 |
160 |
Number of 12 oz. Bottles |
11 |
27 |
32 |
53 |
59 |
64 |
107 |
Number of 16 oz. Bottles |
8 |
20 |
24 |
40 |
44 |
48 |
80 |
Number of 20 oz. Bottles |
6 |
16 |
19 |
32 |
35 |
38 |
64 |
PET stands for polyethylene terephthalate,
a plastic resin and a form of polyester. Basically any bottle that at one time
held a carbonated beverage can be washed, sanitized and re-used along with the
caps. They can also be purchased in brown colored bottles like the one on the right, which is better for you beer
because it blocks UV light which can ruin your beer. I don’t usually leave my
beer in the sun do you? Some people claim clear and green glass bottles leave a
funny taste in your beer, I’ve never found this to be true.
I bottle at least two beers from
every batch in clear glass bottles so I can evaluate what I have. I evaluate
it’s color, clarity, yeast remnants etc. These I save in brown paper lined
boxes and drink it on it’s anniversary date a year after I brewed it. If you
think it was good a few weeks after you brewed it let one sit a year!
Unfortunately, many of our beers today come in twist off caps.
You can not re-use these with a hand capper. The old style bottle that require
a bottle opener are crown tops. You can get them from a recycler or your local
beverage store or get your friends to save them for you. See photo on right.
For
glass bottles you need a capper and lots of caps. I use the one on the left.
It’s called a universal capper and costs
about $12.
Okay I’ve got my
bottles and caps washed and sanitized what next? Well priming the beer of
course!
Before
you can bottle you need to prime the beer. We can do this with just about any
sugar but corn sugar is about the best. Some sugars like table sugar are
inconsistent and can cause off flavors in your beer. DME can be used as well
but it’s more expensive and why not save that for another batch of beer?
What
is priming? Priming is just adding more sugar to the beer so the yeast will eat
it and create CO2 that it will carbonate the beer based on the table below:
Like everything else
there is more than one way to do this.
To
bottle prime you scoop the appropriate amount of sugar into each and every
bottle then pour in the beer into the bottle and swish it around a bit.
To
bulk prime you simply measure out the total corn sugar required to prime all of
the beer (see chart above) then and 2/3 cups of boiling water priming the whole
batch of beer at at one time. To do this follow the instructions below:
Boil the water, remove it from the heat and then dissolve the
corn sugar in the water. Cover the pot and let the sugar syrup cool to room
temperature. Once this sugar mixture has cooled add it to the fermenter and
stir slowly using a sanitized spoon, taking care not to stir it up to much.
NOTE:
If you are using a brew bucket to
transfer the beer from a carboy to the brew bucket don’t prime until you are
ready to rack the beer from the brew bucket to the bottles.
The
most accurate way to calculate your priming sugar is to use a nomograph. A
nomograph eliminates the need to do any calculations you just draw a line or
place a straightedge or ruler on the mark for the temperature of your beer, and
the volumes of CO2 required for that
style of beer. The place where the line crosses the sugar line is how much
sugar you need to prime 5 gallons of that specific beer. This method is much
more accurate because it takes into consideration the temperature, and the
style of the beer you have brewed. At lower temperatures, the beer can dissolve
more CO2, so the colder the beer the better.
Please
note: Temperatures are listed in degrees Fahrenheit (°F) and sugar is measured
in ounces (oz.).
Once
again you will need to transfer your beer - this is known as racking. This time
we will rack into bottles. How you do this depends on the type of fermenter you
have.
If
your fermenter has a spigot it’s easy. Just put a bit sanitized tubing on the
spigot run the tubing to the bottom of the bottle open the spigot and fill up
the bottle trying not to get any air in. Set the cap on top of the bottle but
don’t cap it yet. If you let it sit a until you fill all of the bottles it will
create CO2 and expel any air out of the bottle keeping your beer fresher
longer.
If
you are using a carboy you will need a clean, sanitized racking cane, tubing, bottle
filler and brew bucket. You place the racking cane in the carboy and place it
up on the table, put the bucket on a chair below the carboy and put the tubing
in the bucket. Release the clamp on the hose and transfer the beer into the
bucket keeping the tubing submerged to prevent splashing.
Add
the bottle filler to the racking cane and close the clamp. Put the brew bucket
on the table and the bottles on the chair. When your ready push the bottle
filler into the bottom of the bottle and fill. When you release the pressur on
the bottle filler it will stop the flow of beer. Set the cap on top of the
bottle but don’t cap it yet. If you let it sit a until you fill all of the
bottles it will create CO2 and expel any air out of the bottle keeping your beer fresher
longer.
Once
all the beer is bottled you need to crimp the caps and let it sit in a cool
place out of sunlight to condition for a week to 10 days. For some beers it is
suggested that you condition for up to a month so check the recipes
instructions on this. In general, the longer you condition the beer better it
tastes.
After
the necessary conditioning period put your beer in the refrigerator for a few
days to a week and enjoy!
Congratulations
-You’ve made you first homebrewed beer!
Didn’t I tell you it was easy?
That’s it! Have fun and keep on brewing!
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